The reality of Brazil was very different to what I expected. It has the atmosphere of an island and the imperfection of home. Rio is filled with peaky beach breaks, palm trees, skimpy bathing suits, coconuts and acai berries. Coming into the event, I told myself not to have any expectations and just to make the most of the opportunity that stood before me. After a couple of lay days (and an anxiety build-up) the girls were meant to start and complete 4 rounds in one day. I was the first heat in the water and the last heat of the day. 4 heats certainly is exhausting, but I was overwhelmed to make it through. The next day, we got up early, ate a bowl of my favourite cereal and headed for the beach, not knowing that it would be my best result of my short career so far! I managed to get a 3rd place in a Womens WCT! A big thanks to everyone for the support, and to Roxy for giving me the opportunity to surf all over the world!

Going to all these places all over the world, I get to see a lot.. I get to see that there are faults and flaws in every country. Sometimes they are just kept in the shadows. I have to make a decision sometime this year as to where and when I should try to get another national  passport, so that if the need be, I would be able to start a life in a different country. But every time I came home after a long trip, I promise myself never to leave. Never to run away. To stay, work, help and pray that things would stop going downhill. That, by a small miracle, South Africa would live up to its potential.

So this is my country. The country of the most beautiful souls I have ever come across. This is the country of warmth and hope.

Just as the year started, I invited one of my best friends to visit me in South Africa when our season ended. Her name is Johanne. I have known her for just over 5 years now, but only really became close to her last year, when we travelled together and went through the struggle of life on the WQS: From dragging board bags through airports, sleeping in a different hotel every week, the disappointment that competition so often brings, learning how to make food for yourself, being on the road alone, the frustrations of knowing you can do better, the people’s lives you miss out on back at home. (I AM DEFINITELY NOT COMPLAINING, i have the best job in the world! but even the best job has its pro’s and cons)

Through all of that, she was right beside me, probably making a very honest joke about something that no-one ever notices, in a strong french accent.

We started in the famous J-bay, a little surfer town, managed to catch the tail-end of a little swell. We then moved down to Victoria Bay, the place I call home (even though I probably sleep on an airplane more than in my own bed). About  5 days at home, doing everything the stretch of coast had to offer. Riding on elephants! who would have ever thought. And so we went down the coast, trying my best to give the Frenchies the African experience. Here are some shots of the attempt:

Raced out of the surf, jumped in the van and sped up the hill. Just to capture this sunset.

On a game drive, chasing a herd of giraffes in the distance.

this is a result of Game drive boredom. When you have just seen buck (or according to Johanne, “bambies”) for the last hour.

Getting cosy with the giraffes.

Johanne wanted to buy this just so she could have a theme party back in Reunion.

Johanne trying to look like a lion?

Buffalo Bay. Untouched.

Traditional South African food! get in ma belly..

Don’t really know what we’re doing here. looking artsy?

From the amount of times Johanne shows peace signs, she must have some Japanese blood in there somewhere.

being hippy in front of an empty J-bay line-up.

Afternoon stroll in Kaaimans> Johanne’s mom thought a “Kaaiman” meant crocodile. She was clinging onto that handrail for her life.

second to surfing, this is probably what we do most. eaaaatttt.

My hairstyle says it all, way to early to do anything, never mind stand straight.

stealing my brothers motorbike. shhhh..

View from the top. Victoria bay in all its glory.

Peace out

xx

Western Australia is probably the most beautiful area in Australia and the people are rad! I have been staying with the Maccaulay’s for three years now and they’re the best! I am through to round 3 of the Drug Aware Pro in Margaret River with some big swell predicted for the weekend. Here are some photo’s of our adventures in the last couple of lay days: stay tuned ..

Early morning surfs. Waking up early is not a pleasant experience . .

looking for waves down the coast in the warmth and wind.

    Rock hopping at ‘Big Rock’

    Post heat interview.

 Barbie with the Petersen and MacCaulay families!