My earliest memory is hearing the rumble of the engine in the back ground, waking up at early hours of the morning, my brothers fast asleep either side of me as I watch the sun peak over the mountain, shining through the car window. With boards on the roof, the smell of coffee coming from a flask next to the drivers seat,  and a map spread out wide. Thats what surfing was to me from the beginning, an excuse to explore, an excuse to adventure. 
My father was the one who pushed me into my first wave, and he has been supporting me ever since that day. He introduced me to what I know call ‘my first love’, the ocean, and to a sport that I will do for as long as I can walk. My parents are the reason I have all these privileges today. They have been there before and after every heat with a hug of assurance that they will be proud not matter the outcome.